Hi Shelly.Welcome on ours virtual pages. We are very happy to speak about u !
Do you want to briefly introduce yourself to the readers? Speak us about you pls…
My name is Ayu Shille Minota Ramirez. a long name but i love to say as Shille Minota. was born in Indonesia then living in Indonesia are my dreams. i was spending my great life in Santana Madeira Portugal. Portugal is a country where my mother was coming from. but now with all my desire about traveling and surfing, i choose Bali as Paradise island to be my home. Went for study in Havana Cuba for Psychiatrist for autistic problem. finish my study i was work for hospital in Indonesia. i moved to many places around Indonesia for work until Australia.
Working for autistic kids is my challenged. they are many beautiful kids who got autistic problem having an amazing character. with my age on 33 years old, i got so much fun with my knowledge about kids, brain and life. Living in Bali is fun but sometimes is hard for me cause some people look at me with a discrimination just because im black and my face who looks similar to a local woman here. some threat me bad but mostly i got so much challenge for it. I love being black cause for me black is sexy. then i found a great sport who give me a lot of experience and a new friends.
How did your passion for surfing? How many competitions you have attended?
I started my surfing life it was 3 years ago. Surfing its not just a sport but its an art when you riding your board on the waves. so much fun . first time when i was learn surfing, i got so much scar on my body. my board was hit my head. my knee got cut from fins etc but my passion about waves is on my blood. big waves. mid waves or even flat..i can still happy around with my board. when the waves are great i can stay 7 hours on the water without rest till all my body like weak but there are always a great feeling after. some my local friends in my local surfing spot call me a Jelly fish or in Indonesia is call it ” ubur Ubur’ My favorite places in Indonesia is in Bali and Lombok.. i love Kuta beach Bali cause i can surf with all my local surfer that teach me a lot of fun with surf. but sometimes i went to another beaches.i did some surf competition but not much. it was a competition for woman in Bali Indonesia. I was member of ”Putri Ombak” or princess of the waves, a surfing community for all woman in Indonesia.
Tell us about your best race, how it feels to ride a wave and how you choose the right wave?
My best waves it was in Gerupuk Lombok. ride 6-7 feet of waves with a big board. its hard, i have to flip over my board cause i cant do it a duck dive ( push my board on the water). once when u take off and stand up on my board is going to start my feeling. dancing on the waves. that’s my race. Its not only you have to move your board but all ur body at the same time like flip around. its scary when i see a big waves coming and hit me with my board. i have to focus to choose which waves that i want to take or just give it to other people. always stay in right point to not annoying other surfer. im a goofy foot so its mean i turn my board to left side and face the waves.
People said that the surfers have a very special style of life, very free and full of fun. What about yours?
Living as a surfer sometimes make a negative side. cause like what im doing now is just surf and surf. dreaming a massive waves all the time. check the forecast to know where is the best place for surf in the next day. sometimes i dont think about another things like future or work. wake up early in the morning. drive my bike to surf spot then surf. have my lunch at the beach with local food and watch sunset with beer and chilling out with surfers. plan about surfing trip and new place for surf., at least all about surf. I learn surf a bit fast than i though before. almost 2.5 years i been in my surfing life. i got much support from my surfer dudes, some of them took me to Uluwatu, a best place n Bali that only for a professional surf who can ride those waves. i did..i tried even i got so much scary feeling when the big one come face me and my board. got a wipe out, feeling like on laundry machine. hard breath etc but again..there is always a motivation to be more better and ride a more big waves than i used to ride. Being a surfer is a hard life for woman. cause u will be black and have to taking care about sunburn and skin problem. some people make a comment about me if i love surfing thats mean gonna be black and no one will love a black woman. black is just kind of skin colour. but personality and inner beauty can show how to love someone. so i dont even cre about it. im happy with what im doing now. surfing and being as black woman 🙂
How do you train every day and where?
I surf everyday when the waves good to learn another step of surfing style. but when the waves down. i mostly stay o the beach with friends or watch surf movie to learn the surf technical. i surf often in Kuta beach Bali cause the waves is fun to ride and not to far from my home.
When next competition? Dream?
I wish to get to next surfing competition. dont have any plan at the moment but wish to get in on competition again with my “Putri Ombak” team. cause my team always give me an information about surfing competition. I’m happy living as a surfer now. my dream is just want to ride Uluwatu waves. when i was surfing there, not much girl who can ride those waves..so i really wish that woman can do it as man . Indonesia have all the great waves. no need to be afraid to be black. and surf is not a scary sport. cause once when you love the sport you will love the risk as well. i love surf and im proud to be black.
Thank you very much
Donatella Pristipino
